I’m writing this from my hire car on the headland at bells beach. Initially I was outside the car on a nice little park bench but there was several people walking past me and after one person asked me what I was doing to which I replied, “oh nothing”, I figured to avoid the embarrassment of admitting that I’m writing what is essentially my diary, I’ve since moved into the car!

So – I start this morning off picking up an AVIS hire car and an extra -large coffee with the RipCurl Pro in my sights. Thank god for iPhones because a quick search later and I’m going along the freeway and pretty much just stick on that and follow signs to Bells. Road tripping alone is actually awesome – I sing at the top of my lungs the entire way down, about an hour and half’s drive from the CBD.  I’m surprised that the trip is so quick as I’ve had mixed reports on how long the drive is, ranging from 2 – 3 ½ hours. The only downside to the trip is the maximum speed limit is 100km’s and I find it incredibly hard to stick to!

Road Tripping

I’ve never been to a Pro Surf comp before but I’ve always loved watching surfing on TV and I’ve always secretly wished I’d been more of a “grommet” going up. I pull into Bells and it’s exactly what I pictured, branded flags everywhere and the sound of surfer dudes on loud speaker commentating on the action. Seriously though, I want to die its so amazing! I’ve never seen anything like it! The waves are unbelievable, even from the shore so I can’t even imagine how high they actually are. The image of two single surfers and a couple of jet ski’s in the ocean is one I won’t forget . The view I have is from the Western? headland (I had to think about that now that I’m on the Vic coast) and I can see hundreds of people anywhere they can fit all the way along the coast of the beach. I figure I’d go where the action is down on the beach itself and it’s awesome.  The general surfer crowd just can’t help being cool, dressed for the chilly weather but somehow pulling off pretty daggy cardigans and pom-pom beanies. And all the guys are hot. Even the ugly ones are hot. Even the red haired ferrel ones are hot.  I just love the crowd and although I’m definitely the only one here on my own, it doesn’t matter. Everyone claps and yells when CJ Hopgood does a left calve, something or other in heat 2 I and I get right into it.

A couple of hours fly by and I’ve seen the likes of Taj Burrows & Dusty Payne do things I’ve obviously only ever seen on TV.  By now I can tell I’ll be completely jaded the next time I’m just watching some normal surfer dudes at Macmasters Beach.

Taj Burrows

Next the tide comes in and I’m so lucky because having just come back from grabbing a bite (from one of about 6 food vans) they close the beach, announcing only those currently on the beach can stay. It means when Burrows finally gets out of the water I’m about 2 metres away.  Meanwhile I’m just as lucky because having looked at people at the event on Instagram last night I decide my wellies and jeans are my best bet for the cold and sand. But as the tide keeps coming in, the smugness disappears when a huge wave comes up the sand all the way to the top of my jeans. So there’s a hot tip, if you want to be in the thick of it (and freeze), wear things and shorts! Weather-wise though, I can’t really complain. I’m in a T-shirt the entire day and most of the time I wish I had something lighter on. It’s not until the sun goes down and I realise a lot of my body is actually quite wet that I chuck on my jacket, hands in pockets.

Surf’s up – my Wellies didn’t quite do the job in the end

By 4PM they’ve cancelled the rest of the heat because the swell is getting too heavy which means a disappointed crowd start to leave, a lot of them having stuck around for the eagerly anticipated surf of Kelly Slater (who I was lucky enough to see from afar).  Obviously I’m in no hurry to get home so I decide to take advance of the diminishing crowds and sit in the grand stand to watch the pro tour guys just have a “casual surf” (which is ridiculous, you should have seen the waves).

The Pro

Finally I head off up the hill to the car but not before passing Occy on the way. Not many people have spotted him but he is getting photos with a couple of kids.  I initially pass him completely, just thinking, “cool, I love Occy”, and I’ve also spend the last several hours listening to him commentating!  When he’s no longer in my sights, I stop short and adhearing to my new found self and demanding myself to be confident I approach him as he’s walking away. Of course he’s lovely and we take a photo. Even cooler, he’s headed in my direction so I join him and his mate and we all walk towards our cars. We wave goodbye and Occy yells, “take it easy Peta”.

Yep, just call me surfer chick.

Writing from the Car

Me & Occy!